Thursday, August 2, 2007

Wednesday, August 1, 2007

Pretty women ... or, "Go ask Alex"

The project work groups have headed out for the day to, hummmm, work on projects. The Internet connection at the university is spotty at best and non-existent at worst, so we find a safe haven to have some tea and wireless -- Fong's Café.

Before I pack up to make the sultry trip two blocks down the street (and with the clearing skies I'm down to a pack-and-a-half a day with second-hand smoke), a Chinese student named Alex stops by the Dean's office (our workplace and cool spot) to look over some photos I have taken the past few days and talk shop. He then wanders the conversation from Dao theory and principle to the beauty (he was quick to point out both physical and inner) of American women. He speaks his mind about how his generation deals with the influence of the west, the Cultural Revolution and the pressures of being a team leader. And of course he talks about his love of soccer.

I marvel at his candor as he expresses his views (with a good grasp of English and knowing to use enough several clichés to keep my attention) and he tells me about wanting more freedom (pointing out I don't know anyone ever asking for less freedom) and for China to be respected globally. "We are smart. Why don‚t we have a Nobel Prize?" He goes on about the Post-Cultural Revolution generation dealing with extremes ... from no information to too much. We speak more about Daoism (boiled down to these phrase I've hear a few times now: Don't try to change your environment, change yourself. / One coin has two sides.) and putting it to use as a foundation to making daily choices. He struggles with many of the same things, as do other students on campuses across the world ... seeking an exchange of ideas and concepts and then dealing with being given that information.

Alex then launches into a speech about teamwork and being a team player, both for the state and for the soccer field. He asks if being too critical is a bad thing. He goes on about how his teammates perceive his intensity, and then some women needing to borrow Alex for another project interrupt us. Before he leaves, he looks to me for a bit of advice ...

I tell him to follow his heart.

Miscellaneous







I can't see the blog sight due to the Great Firewall of China (you can credit Dr. Greg Leman for that one). The guy in the cart IS NOT reading the latest Harry Potter; the sign photo should say: Left - certain harm Right - possible injury.

Taxis in the night




















Just reminded how warm it is here by walking out of the office and into the hallway for a short break. The windows are open and the heat seers you as you escape the sanctity of air conditioning. Our daily walk to the university produces a nice workout with about a three-pound fluid loss (and displacement all over your clothing). Everyone is sweaty and even growing up in Florida and now living in Texas, this is oppressive to me.

Instead of following along with a group of students that went to escape the heat and try indoor snow skiing, I tagged along with the Fry family as we headed downtown to do some shopping along Nanjing Road. After a quick trip on the subway (with plenty of signs that make me chuckle), we return back up to ground level and are blasted by the heat and blinded (and awed) by the city lights (or as I later read -- flourishing neon lights) looking a lot like the Vegas strip. Crowds of people are all headed into the bath of colorful lights, on foot, bike and a few "trains" pulling cars filled with families taking in the sights. We take this in, but are on a mission ... PEARLS!

Nanny Fry knows the place to shop and the sales girl at the counter (named Lemon) even recognizes her from previous encounters. The stores are mostly quiet on a Tuesday night, except for the one we hit, as we pick trough the tiny treasures. Here's a note to all who might get the opportunity to shop for jewelry with Professor Cindy Fry: Don't EVER ask WHICH one to buy, as her answer is always going to be "Buy both," (or worse ... all). The pearls are brought out in a variety of colors and sizes and offerings ˆ necklaces, bracelets, and earrings. The strong-willed begin to bargain over prices and quantity and the weak head up to the seventh floor for tea. So it goes, as the men got a nice window booth overlooking the plaza as the women buy, buy, buy. Our tea was a pot green tea, filled with leaves and the hot water kept coming from the attentive staff. One student that tagged along to get some pearls for family members ordered up some strawberry ice cream and the sweet scent filled the booth. We stayed there until the store closed at 10 p.m. and then headed home with our arms full and wallets a bit emptier.

Outside, are besieged with roving street people, selling and offering an array of things we don't want as we try to grab a cab. The first car leaves with half the group (all the women and most of the pearls) and we figure it shouldn't be too hard for us guys to find a ride home. Waving, yelling, flailing and switching street corners for the first 15 minutes proved fruitless. The offers made to us by vendors became a bit stronger; a women and little boy (about Carter's age) plead for money and the boy takes me by the hand and tries to lead me toward the street. Police start coming by more frequently and other riders are beating us to the next available car. More taxis race by, but none seem interested in picking us up. We find the driveway of the Howard Johnson's (no orange roof, but a very nice high-rise accommodation) to be a good bet, getting aid from the staff working out front in helping us secure a ride. By simply sticking his white-gloved hand into oncoming traffic, our helper gets us some attention and a car pulls up to the drive. We get in the car and eek our way back to the Pearl Hotel with traffic creeping along bumper-to-bumper, even on a Tuesday night. We do get back in time to show off our purchases with students in the lobby and vow to return to buy some more.

Next time, we are bringing a white glove.

r

You say tomato and I say xi hong shi






After taking in a nice Western-style lunch (including servers that can speak pretty-good English and GREAT smoothies too) with the Leman family, I take up an offer to attend classes at Miracle Mandarin. Today's lesson: In a Restaurant.

Well, the things I CAN say in Chinese aren't really anything I would want to eat, but our instructor Emma Wang guides us down a list of things to remember when out scavenging for food. I CAN inquire about finding a bathroom and ask for a beverage (which seems to take care of most my needs). But should I have to rely on my Mandarin speaking skills, I would end up eating a lot of tofu and chow mein. Could be worse.

Like most good students, much of our language skills are learned on the street. Offering a distinct (and abrupt) BU YAO (Sort of like: Boo-yow - for added emphasis, use lots of head shaking and arm waving ... works like a charm) is used to fend off street vendors, beggars and anyone else you care to dispatch in a hurry. I still would love to learn a few phrases and today we will expand our vocabulary a bit more. Plus we learn a bit about north/south Chinese cuisine, as Emma is from the north. She explains how corn, a staple from the north, is considered a sign of poverty. We also talk about rising food prices and the division of economic classes, not unlike conversations we hold at home. The more I talk with people and watch life pass by, the more I see similarities rather than vast differences. And we ALL love KFC ...

2 posts from April Leman

Chinese Art:
A great aspect of the I5 program is that they integrate lessons in Chinese culture with the prescribed business classes. A young Chinese woman named Dorothy came to speak with us on Monday about modern Chinese art. The room was warm but the thunder booming outside the open windows kept about half the students awake. The artists Dorothy showed the class all used interpretive methods to explain their inner struggle with language and culture. Although the lesson was interesting overall, everyone was having a hard time appreciating the art work.

other:
After a long day sitting in class and breathing in the summer smells of the Shanghai streets, relaxing in the comfort of air conditioning is often a welcome relief at the end of the day.
Despite the many nightlife opportunities calling to students, many find it more enjoyable to rest up during the evenings. American movies sometimes find their way on one of the two English channels offered at the Shanghai Pearl Hotel. Four or five students gather around to view "Save the Last Dance" or a cheesy 80s movie laced with dramatic fight scenes.
Around 7 or 8 p.m. darkness brings on a slight evening cool, and the search for a dinner spot begins. If your sense of adventure kicks in, picking a restaurant at random and pointing to unidentifiable Chinese characters on a menu can prove an interesting dining experience. For the newcomers, handling chopsticks causes a mountain of trouble. The waitress serves the wonton soup, and now the pressure is on. The Chinese locals turn and grin as they watch you stab at the slippery food with plastic sticks.
After dinner, the hotel again becomes a sanctuary, offering a quiet getaway from heat, lights and smog.

Tuesday, July 31, 2007

East looks west

Judging by the look of billboards, magazine covers and other images that pummel you on the streets (between dodging cars, bikes carts and anything else with a horn) you might get the impression you are not in China but in the U.S. with a lot of odd type-style choices. The faces of non-Asians fill the downtown vistas. Along one city block in Beijing, of the eight massive billboards for a variety of trendy fashions, only one model had a slight resemblance to being Asian. Magazine covers (with many Western titles including Good Housekeeping, Cosmopolitan…) reveal the same sort of look. If you wanted to avoid Chinese culture and cuisine during a trip here, it wouldn’t be too hard, as a group just left for the nearby Starbucks. They have Wal-Mart and Buicks, Pizza Hut and the Disney Store, and the king of them all – KFC. I’m told going to a KFC is a special treat – a sort of date night place. They are easy to find (I spotted one across the street from another in Beijing and plenty here in Shangai) and I worry about this country’s cholesterol levels.


Then again, I could go for some fries…











At the University they are doing a lot of renovation (as the entire city looks massive construction site), but are thoughtful enough to post a banner, running about 100 meters, along the site.

ENJOY!

r